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I've been doing this for thirty years, long befor HDU made it to the market. I gotta tell you, mountng anything to the back of is asking for problems. I've done it an got by but it only takes once to learn a hard lesson.
Can you see any fixtures?
Joe Crumley
www.normansignco.com
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Hi Joe,
Wow - really nice! Thanks for the pictures....and no, I don't see any hardware. :-) I think that perhaps I don't understand your fastening method. Is this pic similar to how you mount them? I envision the angle bracket mounted to the wall just above and below the sign, so you can screw through the horizontal sections of the bracket into the edge of the sign. If this is correct - do you do the same thing for a curved bottom and top? Thanks again for the info. It's much appreciated!
-Keith
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KB,
You're on the right track. The attached photos shows smaller brackets. You'll have to squint to find them. I haven't had any complaints with this type fixture.
These photo are from twenty years past. Both are redwood and have repainted several times.
Screws and HDU;
I' ve learned not use screws with HDU. However with this method of attachment the screws aren't used to hold the sign up. They are fixture that keeps the sign from sliding forward.
Perhaps I should make a "How To" with respect to Epoxy inserst in HDU which allows the use of screws and studs.
I've posted earlier under the topic "Warped Sign" with a failure with DiBond and HDU. That was a major failure on a 4'X10' university sign. Keep in mind, HDU does not expand and doesn't do well in large laminatons.
Joe
Joe
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While I havn't been in this buisness as long as an artist such as Mr. Crumley, I have used multiple techniques, and it depends on the surface you are mounting to as much as anything.
When mounting to a wood wall,I've had really good luck with HDU in simply fastening through the face of the sign with 2-3" wood screws, and color matching the heads. But most of these signs are wood grain textured in a blasted type format ,and the screw heads almost disapear .
I have recently started milling slots in the back side. I then weld a simple "H" shaped frame together in 1/2" tube steel for ridgidity.
The wall has a simple frame that the sign frames slides into(telescopically) and the two are held together with set screws.
If you are interested I can e mail a drawing. It's much simpler than it sounds . And you can acheive a cool dimensional stand off from the wall as well ......if you and the customer choose .
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Keith, i have alot of hdu on brick using the method you show and joe uses.
have never had a problem even with 5x10ft hdu.
some over 10 years and no issues.
used long stainless steel deck screws about every 4''
however all of these were 1'' and thicker hdu
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Thanks for your help everyone. We have run into another little snag. The building department of the town where we are hanging the sign is asking for documentation that the anchoring system we are using can withstand hurricane winds of 110 mph. I am using 2 heavy duty 3/8" french cleats but I realize there are other factors to consider such as the weight, size, and shape of the sign. Has anyone encountered a request like this before, and how did you
handle it?
Thanks!
-Keith
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Keith we have these issues on about everything in the city. Every city has different requirements. we have a plan review to get a building permit for signs. then we have to get a zoning permit also. two permits.
for the permit for the plan review we need stamped architectural or engineer drawings. we give our drawing to the architect and he stamps it. we have been paying about
$200 for that if he does not have to do alot to our drawings. he just puts the windload on there, etc
however many of these drawings have been rejected by cities. each reviewer likes to see the drawings a certain way.
your best option is to talk to the person who reviews the drawings and ask them to recommend an architect or engineer who has no problems getting their drawing approved for signs. call them up and email your drawings to him for price.
we typically have to charge approx. $500 to $1,000 for the permits and drawings (design time not included) to hang a sign with the restrictions you mention.
your situation may be different, so you have to talk to someone who can tell you exactly what you need to present and how much it will cost.
also we have had to wait up to 6 weeks for plan review.
we typically would start the job if we had the zoning permit then by the time we had the building permit the install would be ready to go.
this type of situation is something we have to look at as a product.
the problem we have is that when we explain it up front many people think we are the enemy but i guess you have to tactfully explain all the details without losing the sale. not easy when you do not agree with all the hoops.
especially when they seem to be just hoops and do nothing for public safety.
here you can have a large plastic face electric sign and the faces will blow out during high winds but the drawings just state that the structure is safe. so you get the permit and if the faces blow out during a storm and hurt someone then all the hoops have done nothing for safety.
it is a way for them to make money under the blanket of public safety.
also here some signs are considered fences. i can go on and on but it just frustrates me. every city, township, has different zoning laws for signs and many are not thought out.
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keith, do not be too settled on the french cleat install at this point.
that may be very difficult to prove hurricane strength like you could using
mechanical anchors that have known failure rates, shear rates, etc.
