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Thanks Don and Gary - that completes the puzzle . I may substitute some pieces of UHMW plastic for added stability over wood . If I can get dowel lengths in the material(or fiberglass) even better . UHMW machines easily and is very stable . Now to get some time to get out and source the required materials ... ;) I will post an update when I get to the next step .
I liked the idea of the pneuamatic pins but they would have interfered with where I have the Control box mounted to the frame on the X-axis and I didn't want to disturb that now that everything has been working well for a while now :)
Thanks again ! Bill
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Corrected - thanks for the tip Dave ..:)
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Don , I have decided to implement your approach with the addition of a stop on the Y-axis . I have the platform in place and now on to the blocks.When the blocks are put in placed and trimmed with the machine are you trying to get the edge of the blocks on the Zero-line or displaced by the cutter diameter in some way?
Bill
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Bill...
You can do either. If you stay with the zero line on the X & Y you wont have to add an offset for either version of the flipops. This is the simplest way. If you decide to go with other than zero, let me know & I will send a sub for your custom files. This assumes you are not using OEM files.
I use pins on the zero line for FlipOps first (sheet) and an offset of 3" in both X & Y to my FlipOp fence (parts). So, you can choose either both or none. Its all in the math.
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Bill - I didn't trim the blocks with the Bot. I cut them to size on the chopsaw until they were right on the line I v-cut into the table. I thought about using the Bot then figured there was a chance of the blocks jumping out or around when the bit went by.
As far as where I put them - my X/Y zeroing routine zeros with the prox switches then backs up along the X and Y axis about .5" to set the actual X/Y zero location. So my X/Y zero location is not the prox switches.
