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I cut the Wedging top that Bill Young Posted , as I needed to hold some .5" aluminum for my spindle mount for the DT ( made a temp one so I could use the DT ) as I had a spare spindle at the shop
Today I cut the parts for the mount , still need to drill and tap the parts
speed 1" per sec ,step .0025 with a 1/4" up cut bit
Thanks for the pics Bob, Going Bill's top but with threaded inserts for cam clamps and fences, and job specific vac jig. Nice to see your set-up.:)
Here is a post I made earlier. This has turned out to be really useful. If something is rectangular or even nearly so I can clamp it up in seconds. You can find the photos in the original post "Cool clamping"
This setup was built for a special project that was using all 3/4 inch thick stock and generally rectangular. Since building it I have found that it is useful for whole lot of stuff. For instance on 1/4 inch thick stock I just use a piece of scrap between the clamps and the workpiece.
I found the clamps at Harbor Freight. They were a bit too long so I hacksawed about 8 inches out of each one. They dis-assemble and re-assemble pretty easily. I should have used thinner material for the base but I was hung up on buying just one sheet of plywood. The spoil board is just glued on to the base and gives about 1/4 inch above the clamps. They are screwed to the base with #6 counter sunk head screws and the clamps slide over them just fine.
I was using it with the two bumpers on the clamping end but I found out that a piece of 1x2 screwed to the board worked better. I have this one placed so that I can do a C3 and then move Y to 1.4. Do a z2 and I have the exact location of x and y where you would think it is. This was exact enough that I was able to do a number of pieces on both sides and have very good registration.
Scott when you get yours done with the cam clamps , please post pic .
I needed to machine some holes in a pc 4 3/8" tall in the DT , I made a pocket in a jig that I could mount vertical off the edge of the table ( be careful there are moving parts down there ) This also gives me good registration of parts
Bob, Is there much besides the Y gear in there, Haven't taken an extrusion off yet. How much clearance off X 12 is needed to clear"stuff"? Had considered a rabbeted base for a fence base bolted into frame members and then sliding "insert board" or vac jig up against fences. Got registration pins going on spoilboard I can't screw around with for another week. You're really moving right along! Keep up the good work.:)
Scott the left side is clear , the jig you see is 10" wide X 4.5" deep , that is about what you can fit on that side , On the right side you have the flexible wire track
Thanks Bob, got it. How close could you get to the top of the track with the bottom of the collet. First time I've ever seen pictures with the extrusion off, still working off the factory spoilboard.
Scott right now collet nut to aluminum track about 1.5" , but I can slide the spindle up and down about 2" in the clamp mount if needed for clearance or to reach the job
Bob, You freaked me out and I thought I was having a senior moment. Actually went into the shop to see if my housing was removable or something:) Then reread until I saw your spare spindle comment. You've got all KINDS of options! Nice. Thanks again.
Added threaded inserts to Bill Y's wedging top so I can use Shopfox and other clamps. Also added counter bored insert holes in wedges and fences for allen head bolts or Adrians nylon head bolts so I can keep safe Z at .2"--If they work well, will recut in maple or BB ply. Will install today. Thanks all.