Desktop Jigging--Pics?

Scott

The threaded inserts combine with the dowel set up great idea ,

Great job Scott...like the inserts!

Thanks Bob and Bill, Real test is can Scott get the T-nuts threaded:) I Had installed 100 non-flanged inserts thinking full MDF contact with T-track would be best, but changed design to in between EVERY dowel hole and ordered hex flanged by mistake. Yanked old ones thinking metal to metal contact every inch and a half might be better for warping and keep me from pulling insert out in case I get carried away with the wrench. Did sand EZ-locks with 80G with a large flat piece of maple to get it as flat as possible. We'll see how it works. TG for EZ-lock insert tool and the Bosch drill/driver clutch (not 1 stripped, but did have to run tap on several). Will post mod'd file after I've used it a few weeks if anybody is interested.

First cut last night using Shopfox clamps-Neat! Glad Brady suggested the inserts. Dowels perfect for fence alignment and so snug you need a renovators prybar to get them off:)Bevelled bottom of fences after the first time I tried to get them off to give easier purchase.
BILL, I bought allen head 1/4X20's BUT the Maker Crate bolts are perfect length and you don't have to pocket as deep(.15" works perfect) and they give more surface area than the a standard washer. Where can I buy those Maker Crate bolts?

Cutting #2, Tile 1 all done except for cut-out. Want to triple check before I unbolt, as I caught myself toolpathing as if Mother Nature made MDF :)
Heck of a lot easier making one for Kirks Desktop here on one already made:)
Anybody wants Bill Y's design with inserts, just e-mail me and after I clean up .crv a little I'll send it.

Hi Bill, One of the problems with any design that is bigger than your cutting area is that when you surface the table-the edges are higher than the cutting area and any boards longer than 18-24" can't get flush with table.
Was talking with BobD(we're both using it), and he asked how I dealt with it(Very unscientific flush sanding in my case) and what I thought about making a pocket around the cutting area? I think it's a Great idea.
I just started with a .1" pocket as this ones going to Kirks Desktop and HAS to work right out of the gate. I think Bob's going to go an 1/8".
My inserts are still .15" below the surface of the border pocket so I CAN go deeper and may after I make another and try it for a few weeks.It also put's the 3/4" BBply fences BELOW almost any work surface we do--so no more Trimming my fences when I surface:)

Thanks Bob!

Thanks Scott & Bill for sharing your spoil board design and most especially your experience. I know that I would have found out the hard way about the tiling issue.

Still using that first spoilboard proto that didn't have the have the recess around the cutting area that later ones do(Thanks Bob D). Got tired of sanding the perimeter(inaccurate/ rounding issue), and using the 12"LA Jackplane(difficult from chair/ hard to me accurate).
Last surfacing left me .01" lower than perimeter, so stole a page from Kyle S's Shopbot modified version of Bill Young's original file with 1/4" MDF added to the cutting area. Only had 3/4" MDF. Surfaced using WHiteside 1.25" Mortising bit but lied to machine and called it .5"diameter(with 99% stepover) to give me a little clearance on the corners. Wanted to use TB2 but didn't want to coat both surfaces(because the existing dowel/insert holes were already drilled and didn't want "squeeze out" entering the holes), so I went with TB polyurethane liquid glue as it only calls for one surface to be coated and easy to get thin uniform layer on new MDF. DON'T put on too thick! Used a foam brush on mine and then a tongue depressor to squeegee excess off. Had an 1/8" bow in MDF, so put bow up(so X,0 and ,24 were tight), made sure I had 1/8" overlap at XY 0,0 (MDF was 24.25X18.25") and weighted center heavily.
Surfaced down to .31" the next morning (BB fences .69" and seems to clamp well, but can always surface lower easily).
Wanted to make sure nothing had shifted so pocketed out lower right bolt recess pocket first to get depth correct. Shocked to find out my very first tiling project had the T2 so far off:( Then did lower left 0,0 bolt recess and it was right on the money). Had to take all holes to the right of X16 and offset (X -.015 Y+ .07) and rotate 2degrees (rotation point at X,17 Y,18) to get dowel holes true (use bolt pockets as reference for offset as it's much easier to measure and not a very critical dimension).
Glad I used PU glue as when it did get into insert/dowel holes it "foamed" to a very less density. Tried using dental pics/curved mini-files , but small slot screwdriver wound up being the best to break free the foam dots and then 90 psi blew them out.
Before profiling holes out I put 2 thinned coats of Zinser sanding/sealer on MDF and got clean cuts(seemed to help a final .005" surfacing also).
Still have to grid, but works perfect.
So anybody using the recessed design--When you get down close to your inserts, try it with 1/4" MDF and we should be able to use the spoilboard for years:)
Oh, don't forget you may need next length up bolts for clamps/fixtures.
Hope it helps someone.
scott

Scott, thanks for posting this!

I saw your post in another thread where you mentioned that you added a new layer of MDF to your spoilboard. I wanted to ask how you handled the glue squeeze out, but didn't want to hijack that thread.

I have been babying my spoilboard, but I'm sure at some point I'll have to add a new layer on to mine. Now I'll know how to do it!

Thanks again!
Steve