-
Joe,
I agree about leaving some of this stuff to the professionals. Painting and plumbing are two things that I never get right.
My problem with High Build Primer is that it seemed to allow the finish coat to scrape and scar more easily than other 'primers'. The best way that I can describe it, is that the HBP seems to be spongy. In other words, it seems to allow denting more easily that other materials that I use. Granted, the cabinets and bookcases that I build are beat up and abused by my customers, so I'm always looking for products that reduce or eliminate denting.
-
Mike..
We are going thru some of the pains of the learning process on these finishes now. The lacquers we used are getting negative feesback from our customer base due to high VOC & HAPS numbers. The high solids catalyzed finishes lower all these numbers to aceeptable numbers. There are 2 other advantages in that they have a much lower offgassing of odor when installed and they do not soften in the truck when transported in a 100+ degree trailer.
The main disadvantage is that we have had to go to a pressure fed HVLP spray system that is pricey. We were able to upsize tips and nozzles on the two 2.5 gallon presure pots we used with the lacquer, and have added two 2 quart pots also. The 2.5 gal units are $800+ and the 2 qt setups are around $500. Add another $200 for an air agitator on the large units and you can see that it is not for the occasional user. Maybe one of the discount tool people out there have a 1 qt pressure gun that is affordable.
This pressure fed HVLP delivery system allows us to apply triple the material (dried) in a single application that we were able to with the lacquers. As long as we sand prior to application, we are geting the same results with much less handling and spraying time. They are also much less prone to the blushing that the lacquers had when spraying in our 90/90+ heat and humidity. Even tho this product costs more per gallon, since we dont have to add the thinners, or use multiple coats, it costs much less in the long run. I am a firm believer in using the product that works for you. We all have different ambient temps and humidities and what may work in one area, may be impossible in another. We tried water base products first, but with our humidity, experienced poor results. If we were able to lower the humidity by 30-40 points, I bet we would have good results.
We have a scrap of 15# HDU and I am going to test on this week. That should be a good test of locking in a soft pourous surface.
Gary
