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Oh Vera,
I forgot to ask what version of VCP (Aspire?) you're running:(
Don't want to have it automatically open in VCP10.05 as it's not backwardly compatible with earlier versions!
I have VCP8.5** Shopbot Edition/ VCP9.5** Shopbot Edition/ and Full VCP 10.***.
scott
Thanks for the welcome.
I have used different shopbots at TechShop (makerspace) before they went out of business..
Vcarve desktop 10.5 - I've had it for a while working with an Othermill (Bantam Tools) small CNC.
So many layers etc are okay. I've been looking into tiling jobs..
so that's how I'll be setting things up.
I appreciate the help
Vera
:p Scott, yup, full of my mornin' coffee and feelin' a bit snarky, but the question was "how to cut a top that is larger than what will fit on the Desktop". So, the first thing that came to mind was all the other tools in the shop that could do it and then finish the rest on the bot. :D
:D Yep Oh Great Obiwan:)
That's why I swap from Sumatran Espresso to De-Snarkified at Noon!
I can see your point though!
scott
Vera,
Then you are WAY ahead of me starting from scratch with NO experience in modern CNC or CAD/CAM drawing!
Sorry for delay...Had to setup the Win7 have as "ready to swap" for my control computer to find versions in VCP9.5 for a friend who just asked for the files as well.
"Killing 2 birds with one stone" took longer than expected.
Almost ashamed to send the 2014 files as they are NOT layered as I thought:( Circle re-size Gadget will be easiest way to group the different size holes and then Layer.
BUT will give you a decent idea of it.
Bill's Dowels are designed so when placing in the middle of the field, workpiece winds up on an even inch placement...so easy to do Temporary Zeros.
BUT a few people who did JUST dowels, found the dowels and MDF holes deformed fairly rapidly...and caused material to lift and loosen.
By adding EZInserts, you have quick placement with the dowels, and then using furniture connection bolts to tighten down...they ain't going Nowhere!
(I STILL have to use a renovators prybar to loosen up the larger fences as dowels are Still Snug)
On the "Fences and Wedges" file you'll be getting...use the "As Cut" ones out in No Mans Land and just copy/paste them into the cutting area as needed, and then nest.
PITA to initially build,BUT I haven't had to screw anything down in years!
Made production for us MUCH easier....and my Desktop friend in VA business now has a 3 week lead time even though he can pump out his cedar RV signs on his Desktop....
at 3-6 signs a day with this set-up vs. 2 a day MAX beforehand with screws/counterboring and surfacing the rough stock and then carving both sides.
You should be receiving those file today,IF I can get them on thumbdrive and email them before the phone/internet repair guy shows up at 9(NO phone/Internet SLOW).
Re-read this whole thread and I pretty much did a step by step.
Like I said ... embarrassed at 6 yr old files!
I'll be emailing links for the inserts and Shopfox clamps...and also answer any questions you may have.
HIGHLY recommend FLOODING the spoilboard after cutting with a sealer(I used Naptha/Oil Teak Oil (Interlux) for penetration on my second and third ones...
mine was uncoated and acted like a humidity sponge!!)
scott
(I better BOOK if I want to beat phone repair guy! Also expecting 50-60mph winds from Isaias...so in a HIGH risk power outage area on the coast)
They're sent Vera:)
In March I glued another piece of 3/4" MDF to the raised cutting area(for the third time in 6 yrs), and I always mill it down to about .3" so the BB Ply fences have a decent grip.
This is my original Mark 1 cheapo MDF spoilboard I first posted, and never did saturate the entire thing on both sides with oil/naptha to firm MDF up :(
This time I got it down to .3" and then gave it a 50/50 oil/citrus thinner, as that big box store MDF is like cardboard in the middle!
It had just been skimmed the day before, and on a .005" skim, the 0,0 corner cut about .015"??????
Thought a bolt was loose even though I had checked them when I glued the layer of MDF down....tightened the down Firmly.
Skimmed it...and the darn 0,0 corner was STILL high???
Took the whole spoilboard off after inspecting it with a flashlight and a shim gauge.
All the bolt holes to the aluminum decking were deformed on the bottom!
I had used the "Standard Deck" file to cut the bolt pockets....Shopbot had those bolt pockets cut pretty deep to maximize how many skimmings you'd get out of 1 board.
And between me using the "flanged" inserts(held MDF about 1/16" high off decking), and then the bottom not being sealed, and the top over 6 yrs had been coated many times...
It just started separating the MDF:(
I was tempted to just toss it back on, and cut a brand new one out of HDO piece I saved just for that....but didn't want the corner to lift on HDO!
So eventually cut .3" Sugar Maple inserts to tight fit, then bedded the Maple inserts with 2 ton epoxy.
Chiselled off the deformed sections.....coated the WHOLE board with 3 coats oil/thinner...and a week later installed and registered the cutting area and fences.
Lesson learned.....with the raised cutting area and cheap MDF....those oval bolt recesses only need to be about 3/8" deep.
One of first projects will be to cut the HDO, and SEAL edges and holes!
Just thought I'd mention it.
The second and third ones I did were saturated with oil all over, and still going strong.
On HDO board, I'll use the non-flanged EZ inserts, and drive them down from top surface so they catch threads sooner..and then epoxy on the raised cutting area MDF.
6 yrs wasn't bad for this first prototype:)
scott
Finally!
As a new Shopbot owner I have lots to learn..
Thanks to Scott P. and his files my shopbot has a great holding jig set up - and it works well!
Big thanks and happy holidays
Vera
Attachment 34263 Attachment 34262
Looks like you owe more to Bill Young than me Vera:)
Had a lot of open tabs on threaded inserts and the advantages, but power outage and Christmas deadlines(and being lazy) lost them and didn't repost.
Will elucidate more on inserts, as Kyle Stapleton(teacher) had problems with just dowels.
Deformation of dowels and holes fairly quickly made all 90 degree wedges lift material or loosen while cutting(vibration and cutting force) if I remember right.
Will add a fair amount more and how to mod your spoilboard after deadlines are done.
Inserts make a Lot of difference....and you can still do:)
Enjoy your holidays Vera!! :) :)
Thank you!
scott
JUST got 400 inserts and one Winter project is to make a better HDO spoilboard substrate, with epoxied MDF cutting area to avoid my perpetual humidity change issues.