Guys....
Here are a few pics of the latest version of the rail wipers. Aluminum & wicking felt blocks. Saturate with oil once a week.
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Guys....
Here are a few pics of the latest version of the rail wipers. Aluminum & wicking felt blocks. Saturate with oil once a week.
How much for a set? Russ
Hey Gary, those look real nice! I really need to put some on mine. Would you mind sharing the details. McMaster-Carr for the felt, but how about the tricked out brackets? ;-)
Or are you selling them as a kit?
I just noticed those in your recent table leg post. If you're selling, I too would be interested.
Mark Didawicks machine is set up like that. :)
John...
The version in the Table Leg post is version 1 on my 4 head machine. The newer version has the aluminum angle in reverse orientation and are on my ATC machine.
As far as selling them, I need to give that some thought. With the cost of the felt & aluminum and an hours time to cut, sand drill & tap, I thought most would build their own.
Based on Gary's idea (as with all the modifications I've done to my machine!) here are my 'poor man's' wipers. McMaster felt wedged in place and secured with bolts/fender washers. Periodic dab of white lithium grease on each pad. From what I remember I needed to drill holes in the machine for proper placement of each pad. Looks like the pad on my Y rail needs a trim...
Glen...
No I havent taken any. It is "tuning up" nicely tho... I am really going to like this machine. Bad part is that there is hardly anything to accessorize!
Glen, et al....
Most of our work lately has not been in the shop. When at the shop, I have been doing 2 projects. One is the training video for the SB Link. Still working part time on that one. There is some video of the machine, but no callouts to any mods. Other than the dustfoot, which my machine had an early prototype not the production version, not many physical changes have been made.
The other is a co-op with the guys at ShopBot tuning up the code for the MTC. There was a division of users as far as whether to zero to bed or to the top of material. To use the OEM zzero plate or a fixed block. The real truth is that no one that does sign type work, or is starting out, would gain any value from the slightly more complex approach of zero to bed. Also true is the fact that most that incorporate joinery into their cabinet parts using the SB Link can get good results by zero to the top of the material. This is made especially true if using multiple thickness' of material.
Hopefully, and assuming the crew at SB will find the new files compliant with the SB software, all can use the same file, and choose at will where to zero. There may also be some additions for those that change bits with tool names, etc if they make it into the release version.
Amen to that. Would be a major improvement on both counts.Quote:
Originally Posted by islaww
Nat...
You just liked it because it worked in Metric! :)
Glen...
Here is a short video using the new files. Hopefully this will make a manual tool change routine for all.
http://www.youtube.com/user/Islaww1#p/u/0/T1mfLqIfxu4
Hey nice Gary. Man makes me drool everytime I watch the alpha jog at that speed. I think the screen read 25 ips. The max I can jog my standard is 5 ips. Looking good. :) Nice big monitor too.
What type of felt are you using? Or what is the part# for Mc master Carr
Thanks
alan...
I dont have the part number, but it is white wicking type felt.
this is the stuff I used fron Mc master carr #5051k94 if it help
On McMaster I see two different wicking type felts; what is best to use extra firm or soft?
John...
Caught me at the computer. Looked up my old order. McM part#
8344K97
Hope that helps.
Thanks Gary. I was thinking the "Extra Firm" might be a little tough to get to conform around the v-wheels.. Anything special about the oil you are using to soak these in?
John...
I soak them in compressor oil. For ease, I add WD-40 with a hand pump bottle or the compressor oil every couple of days. I use the WD when I take them out for cleaning.