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Thread: An easy way to make inlays using V Carve

  1. #11
    tim_in_mn Guest

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    As usual, the answer to a complex problem is simple. Just a fresh look from an inquiring mind to find it. Paul, thank you for sharing!

    I haven't tried it yet, but any of our software should be able to cut these. (I use Insigia) If you just profile the line, "inside" and "outside", you should get the desired results.

    Tim

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Location
    Woodinville, WA
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    237

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    Great job....running to the shop to try...
    -- pat

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Location
    Brookline, New Hampshire
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    434

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    Tim,

    I don't think profiling the pocket works. You have to V Carve it. (If I remember correctly, Insignia has V Carve capability ???)

    Paul Z

  4. #14
    tim_in_mn Guest

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    Paul,
    I knew that! I just can't spell??

    Thanks again

    Tim

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Jul 2004
    Location
    Campton, KY
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    183

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    Paul; YOU DA MAN! Very creative!

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    , Boise ID
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    40

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    Another way that works well for cutting the inlay pieces is to just carve them into your block of wood, say 1/8" deep into a 1" block. Then just run the block through the band saw to remove the parts. Just put a piece of newspaper or something down to help catch any pieces that may fall out as you resaw them. I've cut inlay pieces no bigger than this exclamation point (!) that way, it's much easier than trying to not break them while peeling them back up off the double-sided tape.

    One thought with using the bigger bit is you end up with a lot more wasted space between parts. I end up doing most of mine with a 1/32" bit, goes slow, but I can cut 50 logo's worth out on a single block of wood, run it through the bandsaw, and get busy piecing together the parts. I guess it all depends on the size of the inlay. Seems like a great way to get truly sharp corners!

  7. #17
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    , Tiffin OH
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    121

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    I like to second what Jeff said, that reawing is a great way to remove the parts. The table saw also can be use for resawing. On the table saw I like to place the end of shop vac hose near the blade to catch the parts. Place a wire mesh over the end of the hose to prevent the parts from being suck up inside. I can cut much smaller parts this way when what I could with carpet tape.
    Paul is right about a large bit cutting out the inlay faster and in one pass. Mark

  8. #18
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    , Tiffin OH
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    121

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    Here’s a inlay I did by Paul’s inlay method. Use a 45 degree v bit. Remove the parts with a drum sander. The capital letter is 1.5 inch high an the lowercase letters are 1 inch. The fit was rather sloppy. I was a bit surprised. Probably cause by round out or maybe the angle of the bit was a bit off? As can be seen in the picture there was number of places the wood chipped. Mark


    15032.jpg

  9. #19
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    , Oxford In.
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    70

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    Mark and all. concerning the chipouts. I was thinking a finish of some kind might toughen the wood fibers getting a cleaner cut. i havent used shellac but i think it might be easy to sand off after the inlay is done? I use oilbased finish and sometimes stain. I dont like sanding sealer, though i think it would really solidify the fibers, its terrible to sand off. I might try this with a thin coat of poly, thin , and then sand the inlay down along with the whole surface. A sharp bit an maybe 2 passes might help? just thinking out loud. rick

  10. #20
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Location
    Brookline, New Hampshire
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    434

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    Here are the modifications of the previously posted procedure. The modified procedure insures a better fit of inlay to pocket by accommodating the inevitable inaccuracies caused by both the machine and the materials.


    15131.jpg

    Note that the inlay is upside down in the diagram as compared to when it is cut. Also note that all cut depths are measured from the top of the materials.

    Both the pocket and the inlay are V Carved. The flat pocket depth should be a little deeper than the inlay start depth to make sure that the angled sides contact before the flat portions of the pocket and inlay contact. The inlay flat depth provides that extra margin should the pocket be a little larger than intended or the inlay be a little smaller than intended.

    If the overall project is complex, one could cut matching numbers in the inlay and pockets to identify what part goes where.

    By the way, I have cut all of the pockets for a project at one time and then cut all of the petals of a flower as a single inlay piece. This does make the wood grain go in just one direction; however, it can speed up the process quite a bit at the expense of the inlay material.

    Hopefully this will eliminate the sloppy fit that Mark experienced.

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