Considering CNC Router for RC Yachts

[GlenM]

Hi all, looking for some help/advise

i am looking seriously at a small cnc router to help me develop racing RC Yachts for self. primarily for carbon and glass fiber mold making of fins, keels, and hull. i am not retired quite yet, so dont have a ton of time to do by hand and just cant get the accuracy required. Desktop size of router is what i am looking at due to cost and space limitations. I think my questions revolve around software package more than hardware - maybe.

So here are a few of my questions:

Envelope: the boats vary but are approx 40in by 8in by 6in (X,Y,Z) - so i know i will have to split the molds. how easy is this with Partworks3d to take a whole model and partition into say 4 pcs?

Aero foils: will need to design and machine aero foils (male and female molds) - straight forward? what software?

Router/Spindle: I've read the benefits - it will be low volume but i will be mainly creating in MDF, Ply, Foam, Lexan. possibly thin Aluminum. is the router good for all these. time to manufacture, and noise is not a factor at this point just needs to be capable?

Software: given the above scope of work/tasks what are the limitations of Vcarve and partworks, if any?

Appreciate the help.

[hh_woodworking]

you a full 3d software. Aspire or some of the other ones that are used

[Brady Watson]

You'll want to invest in Aspire (around $1500 for SB customers as upgrade) to do the type of work that you want. I'd also recommend looking at Rhino 3D as a supplementary piece of software for full 3D modelling.

I've scanned plenty of hulls (and fuselages etc) for RC customers over the years. A BT48 would be fine for what you want to do. The Desktop if you are OK indexing or breaking up the models into smaller sizes. You can do longer models by indexing your material, machining & then moving the material down and continuing machining.

The CAM software is what makes the tool do its fancy footwork. The software that comes with the machine will get you going, but I recommend Aspire because you will want to take advantage of the powerful 3D manipulation & creation tools, in addition to advanced toolpathing strategies not present in Cut3D/PW3D. Aspire is a superset of VCP, so you won't be missing anything.

Welcome to the forum. Be sure to look around at the Virtual Show & Tell, plus other's posts covering just about everything you'd want to do on your ShopBot and then some.

-B

[GlenM]

Thank you guy's. while I know a little about 3D modeling principles and have managed Machine shops - have not actually created models and code (mostly Solidworks and MasterCam). Had bright guys take care of all that stuff... So I am quite looking forward to learning and I know it will be a curve - I just want to pick the right setup so I only have to learn once!

i'll have another sqeeze of the wallet and see if I can get to a BT48. I know that would be better!

Cheers

[garyr6]

Go to the Vectric site and download the trail and play with it. Lots of training videos etc.

[Brady Watson]

You don't have to know anything to have your hulls scanned. You pull the ready to machine data into software & create toolpaths. Then machine your parts. It really lowers the learning curve...and gets you making a return on your investment right away. Then after you have some wiggle room to use the software with proficiency, you can model your own hulls from scratch or make derivative works from scan data. I'm saying all of this because most don't know these options are available...and many have banged their heads with steep learning curves, or quit or sell off their machine at a loss. Nobody wants that!

If I could advise you, it would be to visit a ShopBot owner in your area that is proficient with 3D work. Then you'll be able to see the process & understand what you will need to do for your stuff. Ask lots of questions...

-B

[GlenM]

Downloaded trial version of Aspire last night, watched a few on line video's... was able to import my boat design program from Freeship, crate a model and produce a toolpath - finished product looked like a boat!

Way too easy! They make it easy to spend money, scary.

this is now my dilemma

Desktop , least expensive but probably will have to slice model in X and Z
BT32, got the Z but will have to slice, or index in X - middle cost ground
BT48, one pass - most expensive

I would rather not slice the models. how easy is it to "index" is this done in Aspire or the drive software?

pause, reset zero, resume or something like that???

getting closer!

[Brady Watson]

I would rather not slice the models. how easy is it to "index" is this done in Aspire or the drive software?

Aspire. It is called toolpath paneling. It is on the toolpath tab.

In regards to the tool itself - buy larger than you think you'll need. If this is a hobby, then you may be patient enough to deal with indexing & slicing. Otherwise, bite the bullet, make the money and get an ROI as soon as possible.

-B

[scottp55]

Hate to admit it but for 40" it would be tremendously easier to do it in one whack than the 3 a Desktop would need. And if a "natural finish" was going to be used, then I think slicing would always look a little "odd".
Good Luck!

[Joe Porter]

Glen, have you seen the tutorials on Tiling (Paneling) on the Vectric website? D-02 is about 2-D and F-11 is 3D. Unfortunately, F-11 is only available on the Aspire installation disc. I have a BT 32 Buddy and have to Tile a lot, it is cumbersome, but, so far, has been totally accurate. I have never done any slicing, but I have seen some 3-D models at camps and shows and they looked fine, with no visible seams. These were painted and finished models, as I assume your boat models will be. As far as which machine to buy, I use my BT 32 for anything I want to cut, however, if your pocket book allows, a bigger machine is always better. As far as Standard or Alpha is concerned, a Standard will do your type of work all day long, again, if money no object, the Alpha's are nice. Finally, if you decide to go with a router instead of a spindle, you can always upgrade to a spindle later with no loss of money because the router can be put to use in other normal router uses. Hope this helps...joe