Gilding HDU

[joe]

This sign is a series for the Quorum Office Park.

I've routed them and sandblasted with a Grain Frame for texture.


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Laying down a base coat for Gold.


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This doesn't really show anything but the panel in the center is .75" Extira. It's there to add some weight and stregnth. Without it the sign didn't weigh anything since it's from 1" stock and half of that was routed away. This allowed me a French Clip holding method. Which I prefer.

[tuck]

Joe, very nice as usual but I have to ask,...why are you brushing on that paint? Why not take a small foam roller and roll it on? I'm just curious and thought others may be as well.

[joe]

Force of Habit.

I love my brushes. Some of them are twenty years old, and I consider them my friends. Hope they feel the same.

When I go, I sure hope they find a good home.

[thecustomsignshop]

We use a foam roller. Makes short work of a detailed process. (We also stopped using Extira.) I found a great way using an hvlp gun to spray MAS expoxies and primers. Cuts the time in half and the results are awesome. Trupan is it for us. Nice job Joe.

[tuck]

Haha, Joe, I figured it was force of habit and almost came right out and said it to start with!

I think it's a beautiful thing. You're obviously very adapt with computers, CNC and all that modern jazz on top of being as master sign artist/maker, but old habits die hard, don't they?!

[joe]

Mark,

Do you think it's possible to get the same quality of finish with a foam roller as a brush? We've tried using the very thin knap roam rollers from James Town Distributors. Even then I haven't been satisfied. They come in 1/8" knap. I buy them by the case since they aren't very expensive. Their quality is good.

My best gilding surface is on epoxy laid down with a syrenge. It's glass swooth and has a rounded surface. Permium surface.

I've found my brushes leave a smoother, glass like surface. But what do I know. I'm on automatic pilot most of the time. Pushing signs out faster than ever before.

[signtist]

Joe, Could you tell me exactly what brand, size, etc. are the cheap roller covers you order from Jamestown Distributors?
I've been looking for a better supplier.
I've been paying .79 each for 3" 1/8" nap Shureline covers by the case.
Thanks John

[joe]

Howdy John,

The infromation below is for very thin nap. You might want the 1/4". I had a little trouble getting used to the thinner rollers. But with your tallent it won't make any difference.

My last order was for ARW-Foam9
Yellow Roller Cover 9" 1/8" NAP
2 Cases of 50@ Total $113.90

Jamestown Distributors
17 Peckham Drive
Bristol, RI

(401) 253-3840
Fax 254-5829

[bpfohler]

Joe,
I asked this question in my last post and nobody really gave me a clear answer. What method do you use to cut your mask in preparation for blasting?

Is it applied to the raised area and trimmed or cut prior to application?

By the way, I'm new at sand blasting so what's a grain frame?

[joe]

Robert,

There isn't a pat answer to your question about masking.

You would probably do best to cut the sandblast resist on a plotter and transfer it to your HDU or wood.

I'd suggest you do an area clearance around your letters, then blast. It saves lots of time and is much easier.

A Grain Frame is a series of wires strung on a frame to imitate woodgrain texture. Some are made by artists but there is one on the commercial market. It used be sold by Sign Foam.


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We use regular vinyl as a mask. I wouldn't try this starting out. It's sure to fail unless you have the pressure and sand flow just right.


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This shows the blasted and non-blasted area using vinyl.

Hope this points you in the right direction.

Joe