one of these terms i have seen used I wasn't familiar with so i just learned something
And who says you can't teach an old dog new tricks?
one of these terms i have seen used I wasn't familiar with so i just learned something
And who says you can't teach an old dog new tricks?
I like the scope of the project and I think you have really good start. The biggest problem I had when I first got my Bot and therefore my first set of router bits was actually pretty simple. I had computer skills with NO wood skills. ALL of the router / bit terminology ASSUMES a knowledge of wood or substrates in general. I had no idea what the heck they were trying to tell me! What would have been very beneficial would have been a simple photographic comparison showing three things:
1. a picture of a router bit, with brief text about it's intended use
2. a picture showing a GOOD cut, and
3. a picture of an abnormal cut, with brief text about the probable causes
This chart would show lots of different kinds of bits, vbits, ball nose, tapered, 2 flute, etc,. Not more than 1 or 2 of each basic type. This would be followed by your much more technical description and further explanations of cause and effect.
If you follow the threads on here we get tons of wordy problems posted regarding fuzzies, burns, broken bits, how do I . . . .etc, followed by a battery of knowledgeable replies asking for an example pix! Once the BAD / problem pix is posted there are a ton of really good solutions, such as speeds, bits, feeds, etc. So the photo chart would be my wish list. A couple of years later there are still a ton of substrates and bits I have not tried. Russ
Last edited by chiloquinruss; 02-22-2012 at 12:31 PM.
Thanks to all who gave input both on and off the forum! A general consensus would seem to be 'add many illustrations!" This is not surprising as those of us who like working with our hands tend to be visual learners...
I will not search the forum for photos and risk using someone's image without their permission, however... if you have something you think may be pertinent and are willing to let me use them... please attach them here or send them to stevedotglasselatsgmfgdotcom. Just to be perfectly clear... there is no intent to make a document that will ever be any thing but free to those who want to download it.
Thanks again for encouragement and ideas...
Stay tuned for version 2
Steve
Hi Steve,
I find the document you are providing interesting,and would like to commend you for going to the effort and trouble and I am sure many new user's will find it very helpful.
Once again, well done.
Cheers and regards,
Roger.
Well... here it is Version 2.0 In an attempt to assume no previous knowledge, I've included more definitions and many illustrations. I have attempted to make it an interesting read... my wife says I failed... but she has no interest in the topic. Keeping the document "Basic" yet accurate is difficult.
I'm still open to suggestions and illustrations and please check me for accuracy. The document is to large to post anywhere on the forum so the link is to my Google Doc.s account. Some of the illustrations do not display correctly unless you download the PDF to your own computer.
I figure at least one more document revision will be necessary, I'm lacking especially in the areas that refer to metric tool sizes.
Thanks again to all who offered support, suggestions and criticism.
Steve G
https://docs.google.com/open?id=0B8G...THBEbmtBZk1mUQ
Wow, very cool Steve. I learned a lot. Thanks!
Rik
Looks like that is going to be a useful resource for many users. You have done a great job.
I would mention the aftermarket collets available for standard routers, and how they give you some of the benefits of an ER style spindle collet. I have a set of the precisebits collets and I don't know what I would do without them.
I may have missed something, but I would suggest that the section on chip load could be improved by mentioning the visual, and audible, indicators of a chip load that is too light. (dust, smoke, screaming bit, etc...) I would also mention something about how the bit at least for most applications I am aware of should never be too hot to touch.
The more practical considerations the better. It amazes me how many woodworkers are not aware of the concept of chip load, and this was something I was not aware of myself until I started working with CNC equipment. I have taught, and demonstrated to quite a few experienced woodworkers that the reason why their bit was smoking, and producing dust was not that it was dull, but that they were cutting way to slow with it.
Michael Schwartz - Waitsfield VT
Shopbot prs standard 48x96. Aspire. SB Link.
Thanks for all the hard work! As a newbie the information is really helpful.
Some other questions I have had as a novice include:
Can all/any router bits be used in my CNC machine? What are the differences?
How far into the chuck should the bit go?
How tightly should the chuck be cranked down? (got mine stuck early on)
Can my bits be sharpened? Should they be?
What are some examples of "bad" cuts?
I am sure there are others. Hope you can use my feedback.
Gina
Actually I was trying to point out that you spelled minute wrong.
While the chipload would indicate that the 3-flute bit should be run at a faster speed, one might not have the power in either their spindle or motors to push the 3-flute bit through the material as fast as it wants to be pushed. I use single-flute 1/4" compression bits instead of 2-flute bits for this reason. I can push the 1/4" bit faster than I can push the 2-flute bit, only because the 2-flute bit starts to bog down with my 2.2HP spindle if I try to push it too fast.
David Buchsbaum
Beacon Custom Woodwork, Inc.
dba Atlanta Closet & Storage Solutions
404-309-9146
david@atlantacloset.com
atlantacloset.com
beaconcustomwoodwork.com