Sure can.Could I also insert a
C6
Pause 2
So, is that the one you called 19pat? Cool! That's another example where it would look nice to have the top and bottom edge be the same.
Sure can.Could I also insert a
C6
Pause 2
So, is that the one you called 19pat? Cool! That's another example where it would look nice to have the top and bottom edge be the same.
Scott
No Scott, that one was a "SwitchSides""drawer". Here's yesterdays 19pat A-B cut for a shelf. Was going to post after cutout, but control computer is throwing a hissy-fit. Going to swap keyboards as that was mucked up yesterday.
scott P.
2013 Desktop/spindle/VCP 12.0*
Maine
You are NOT to notice I should have done B-A or labeled my boards different. It doesn't matter in this case, BUT I guess maybe I should read the instructions better
scott P.
2013 Desktop/spindle/VCP 12.0*
Maine
I was out the last 2 days but notice some more tests..I hope you guys are having fun with it. As for the questions that came up in the meantime:
- I believe I mentioned the cut depth somewhere but it is a good idea to make it very clear so that users don't ruin their spoil board. I found it most convenient to use vacuum pods smaller than the work piece so that the actual cut is hanging free. I will also try adding tabs to help cutting from sheet good.
- I can try adding the g-code pause but if the shopbot ignores it it won't be any good. I had another thought....How if I parse the comment text (normally just for general purpose text) and for every piece of text within parentheses I just paste that piece as a line at the beginning of the g-code. Then you can put any special shopbot code in that you need. Would that be useful?
- I need to re-check the groove function. It worked at some point but maybe I messed it up later. For that matter, if the "rabbet" is chosen, the groove is supposed to go to the edge
- When did the job type error happen? Normally when there is a default file, one of the job types should already be selected. I need to check that.
- good clamping is indeed essential. Lately I used miter frame clamps connected with threaded rods. They are O.K. but I am still looking for something better.
- I am not sure how that is meant with top and bottom margin the same. That can easily be selected because the top value in the list defines to top section, the last one defines the botton section and the values in between should match the number of fingers per pattern. Example: if you have 7 fingers per pattern, should should have 9 values in the list from top to bottom. The randomizer function sometimes makes the last value zero or creates other oddities. I would consider it only as a starting point for manual refinement.
- Scott P. wrote me about differences in fuzziness between A and B. That is likely but depends on the wood and the bit. It did not bother me too much so far but I will see if I can change the bulk removal strokes for both sides of the joint to conventional milling. But that is something for the future. First I need to fix the real bad bugs.
This is what I meant by a bad case of the "Fuzzies" For once I wasn't exaggerating. Only on this A-B joint, all others were clean. Excuse the 1'st grade scrawl, writing with a mouse in a hurry.
scott P.
2013 Desktop/spindle/VCP 12.0*
Maine
You guys are having way too much fun with this!
Thanks so much, Gert! Now I just have to go out and cut some! I wish my shop was air conditioned - 105 here right now!
Ron Sloan
Oooh...I believe you are machining the joint across the grain (if I can see that right)? I would not recommend that. It is of course technically possible (and maybe O.K. for purely decorative joints) but I would consider it questionable wood working practice. There are no wood fibers to strengthen the fingers and the joint will be very weak. You could just as well glue the 2 pieces together with a smooth surface joint. I have not tried it for that reason and can imagine it leaves a lot of fuzz on one side.
Cherry A-B shelf with pockets for 5X5" support and second shelf and 1/2" shaker pegs. Pat19 option. The gaps seen every 5'th finger are NOT G's fault! I wanted to use a decent bit and all I had was a 1/4 shank Onsrud 1/8. I carefully measured bit, looked at the settings and surfaced my wood to .72".
Every 5'th finger is a max cut depth, and that's the swage of my bit carefully burnished into the finger. OOPS!!
Who knew that SB3 preview has min and MAX #'s
I noticed on the first one a little, but it went away! Until the next time!!
Stopped and checked and it was marginal and no other decent bit available the same exact diameter, so went with it and cringed all the way and because of having to get rid of the Fuzzies, had to listen to it twice
Recognize the piece I'm using for a center support Gert? I knew I'd use it for something.
scott P.
2013 Desktop/spindle/VCP 12.0*
Maine
Oh! Ran 220G on a block across end grain of fingers. First time I ever made a joint where the wood was so thin it vibrated and sang
scott P.
2013 Desktop/spindle/VCP 12.0*
Maine
Boards aligned the same.
scott P.
2013 Desktop/spindle/VCP 12.0*
Maine